Snowdon Adventure 2009

Horse Trails & Horse Tails

By Karen Burch

Riders
Lisa Parry,
Angharad Parry,
Karen Burch,
Val Price-West,
Denise Meldrum

In July last year Denise Meldrum from Criccieth, and a companion, rode from Criccieth beach to Rhyd Ddu and onwards to Llanberis and back, after Snowdonia National Park removed the gate barriers on the bridleways which had been obstructing equestrian passage up to the summit for decades. Having received an invite last year, but being unable to attend, I set out to complete the journey myself this year, thinking it would be a wonderful personal challenge.

Being the BHS County Access and Bridleways Officer for Carmarthenshire and the Chairman of an affiliated bridleways group, Carmarthenshire Riders, promoting safe off and on road riding, and the Vice Chair of the Local Access Forum I thought it would be an excellent way to encourage long distance equestrian adventures in Wales. Wales has some stunning scenery, and my past endurance experience sent me all round the South of England but who really needs to go anywhere else!

So, along with 4 other members of Carmarthenshire Riders
(and an ever suffering husband to crew) we set out on
Friday 31st July from Carmarthenshire on route to Criccieth
where we were to camp our first night and
corral the horses in a farmers field.

Denise offered to ride with us on the first day, as an escort, from Criccieth to Rhyd Ddu, a distance that would take us about 3 hours if we shifted where we could. After a very wet night in our little tents at Black Rock Camp Site, we hoped and prayed for a dry day as we cooked bacon, egg, sausage and beans on our camping stove and packed away soggy tents. It would be a long day, possible 6-8 hours in the saddle and there wouldn't be time to stop for lunch so a hearty breakfast was needed.

The horses looked very bedraggled that morning after spending the night, corralled on an open hillside, rugged but without shelter in driving rain, but there was plenty of grass (something lacking here in the south because of the continual rain the week before) and at least it wasn't cold. We poo-picked the corrals, to the suprise of the farmer, and were ready to leave by 9am having packed away as much stuff as we could in the trailers. We decided to leave them in Criccieth until Saturday afternoon, taking with us in the crew car, a rug and feed for each of the horses for after the ride.

We set off along the beach. It was a stunning day. We wore waterproofs, but soon had to remove them. One of the horses was scared of the surf and braved the big stones that made up the beach as the tide was still fairly high and we had no sand to walk on, but all were keen and excited, knowing something was up. Val rode a barefoot arab in a ropehalter (no bit!) and I did wonder how she would manage, but he was enjoying the ride in the pebbles massaging his feet and he was impeccably behaved.

Between us we carried everything we might need in panniers on the saddle. First aid for horse and human, spare clothes, waterproofs, snacks, drinks, survival items and shoe removal tools. We reached the edge of the beach and hopped up a two and a half foot step on to the road. The horses took it in their stride but I think it raised a few eyebrows of the riders. Not something we do day to day. Little did we know it was a taster of what was to come! We set off along the road on to cycleway number 8. Val put front boots (Cavello) on her arab just to be sure he stayed sound and we motored through the lanes at a fast working trot. We had a lot of miles to cover and the second half would be at a walk because of the terrain. We were mindful that Denise had to ride back alone from Rhyd Ddu so we had to push on.

We could see the mountains in the distance and hoped that the clouds would shift before we got there. We were desperate for some scenery shots. After a crew stop with sugarbeet and water for the horses and a top up of drinks for us we set off on the bridleway skirting Bedgelert forestry. It was now quite a warm day, not blazing sunshine but bright and we were drinking lots. Loo stops were a cause for joviality but we wont go into that here!

The bridleway was marked at points where the bridges crossed the streams hidden in the bracken. I was nervous of the metal netting over the wooden beams that made up the bridges, scared that it would catch on the metal shoes but all was well. I was glad Denise knew where she was going as the bracken hid the route of the bridleway and there were very wet patches. Despite writing out a detailed “talk around” of where we were going, just in case anything happened to her, I think we would have lost a lot of time working out the right route on our own. I thought it would be nice if the council would clear these routes of bracken to make the route more commodious. The path is very wet in places bordering on bog by some of the gates. We found the gates difficult because of the boggy ground which the horses didn't want to stand in for long and the gates had a beam at the bottom that was hidden in the water. Two of the horses tripped over on two occasions, nearly to their knees. Stepping over is not a problem if they can see it's there. It was interesting to see that stiles over a stone wall had been put in for walkers in a dry area and it was a shame that the bridlegate couldn't have been moved along as an alternative at two separate points where these wall steps had been put in. We could see the mountains in the distance and stopped for a photo opportunity. We followed an old tramway and came across ruins of buildings once probably a hive of activity in days gone by. I don't think this was on the bridleway as the the registered route seemed to have been subject of a rock fall.

We rode through the old quarry and along the tramway. We were so lucky with the weather. It was dry and warm and the horses were still keen despite the quick start. The views were stunning! I had studied the route on google maps and I knew exactly where we were. (yea right!) Well it looked familiar! There were places that we really had to ride the horses hard to get up some steep and slippery places where their feet just wouldn't grip. No place for the feint hearted!As we approached a gate my horse was up to his hocks in a bog and was in a panic but a few feet to the left the others found a safe route through. We were grateful for Denise's planning, having experience of the short notice weather fronts and she had walked the route previously marking the stones with red and blue arrows with spray chalk so we would be OK if we suddenly had zero visibility. I would not be confident riding this route again without a guide as the safe route is not clearly defined. Something we can ask the Local Authority for perhaps!

The route winded its way downwards along a rocky path through the trees which also served as a stream at times judging by the soil erosion. We headed into Bedgelert forestry and found that Denise's horse had lost a shoe. He came down on his knees at one of the scrambling bits and must have trodden on it, pulling it off. Not much we could do so just plodded on, planning how to get her home safe. Unfortunately not sure her horse would go into a trailer or our back up crew could have taken her home. She decided to turn round at Rhyd Ddu as planned and ride home after trying on the hoof boots we had in the car which were too big. Lisa too was complaining of having something in her eye and was trying not to rub it. The route down the hillside to Rhyd Ddu was a bit hairy in places with some boggy bits to struggle through. We also found it was the venue for a fell running championship and approached a sign saying finish and a few runners out practicing. Not for us though, we still had the route to Llanrug around the foot of Snowdon to ride. This was the bit I was initially wary of and had a friend walk the route for me. It was just as his pictures described. Fantastic! We set off along the road from Rhyd Ddu to the Snowdon Ranger Path. The traffic was very respectful and we picked up the bridleway that zig zags up the hillside at the foot of Snowdon. We saw a train on the line which came as a surprise as we were not aware it was used. It gave the horses their first look at a train in close proximity. Angharad's horse was a little jittery with his eyes out on stalks.

It was a slow climb up the zig zags and it felt like we were not making any progress at all. We came to the post marking the path to Llanberis and we took a steep climb up the hill looking for the bench seat that my friend told us to look for. For about 5 minutes I was concerned we were heading in completely the wrong direction. There was some discussion over what “the path continues at 11o'clock” meant. He had said this in his notes. I was comforted when it came into view, knowing we were heading the right way. Then came the peacefulness of a path in the
middle of nowhere!

This was wonderful. It wasn't long before we could see the train going up the other side of the valley onto Snowdon and we could hear them too. I wondered how the horses would cope.

The weather was perfect and we could see for miles. We got off and walked a bit here to give the horses a rest as the path continued downhill. It also gave us a chance to loosen up. The ride from Criccieth had taken us 3 hours and we had been at a walk for the last 2. We didn't find this paved path too bad.

Easy to walk and the horses found it easy too, little slipping. Someone commented on the damp in the house set down below us and to the right of the path which was waterlogged and derelict, long since occupied. We knew we were not faraway from our crew point where the bridleway met the unsurfaced highway. We stopped here for a while washing out Lisa's eye with saline that we had in the saddle bags, which was causing her severe discomfort by now and she got out part of a pine needle. The saline wash that was in the first aid kit had helped, but she needed sun glasses and further washes and pain killers. I did wonder if she would be fit to finish the ride. We continued and hit the 7 or 8 kilometres to the B+B we were aiming for in Llanrug. The horses had a new lease of life and trotted enthusiastically on the mountain road by passing Llanberis towards Llanrug.

We had to stop and ask directions at one point as, in the middle of a residential area it was unclear where the old road went. We were all tired and keen to rest and we had become very quiet. 8 kilometres of tarmac was boring after the fantastic views of “Gods Country” we had experienced today. There was talk of a large bath and Radox after Alwena at the B+B at Cil-y-Bont had said something about a big bath in one of the rooms. We were pleased to see the crew car in a field on the left as we passed a field full of mares and foals. Ahhhh! The corrals were set up perfectly (well trained!) so all we had to do was untack, wash off and fill up the water buckets. The horses were tired and were pleased to have a roll and have a good drink and some grass. The field was about 10 acres. The horses didn't know each other that well so we had planned to corral for the whole trip but after letting out the two that lived together it was interesting to see that they kept coming back to the other two and hung around the corrals. So after feeding separately in corrals, we let them out together. It was nice to see them running as a herd and enjoying the freedom. Two of us stayed at the B+B and cleaned tack and filled water carriers for tomorrow and watched the horses playing whilst the others went to collect the trailers, bought chocs for Denise as a big thank you and checked she was back safely. It was great that the horses could walk off their stiffness in the field at Cil Y Bont, and Im sure they were far better off than being in the corrals.

We cannot thank Alwena enough for the use of the field. The rooms were great and the shower was hot and powerful. I could have stayed in there for an hour! It was dream accommodation and I could have stayed there just resting all weekend. They are also an accredited caravan site for 5 caravans. We pushed on to meet before 8 so we could go to Petes Eats in Llanberis which shut at 9. We were a little late and found some of the dishes were no longer available so we went to the curry house next door. I would recommend it. We had a great meal and were sorry to have to leave some but there was just too much! As we drove back to Llanrug we looked out for an area that we could park the boxes the following day. The 8 kilometers of tarmac was boring and the boots had rubbed Vals horse a little so it would be prudent to cut it out if possible.

We found a large layby on the way to Llanberis where we managed to put both trailers in a way that meant we could unhitch the crew car and the remaining trailers couldn't be moved. We only brought one trailer wheel lock! It was a bit of a struggle but we managed to angle them right, but in the rush had not tightened up the jockey wheel enough and the trailer fell to the floor. By winching the wheel to the top it was just a little too far down to hitch to the car, but we decided to worry about it when we got back. It was only 11 miles today. Nothing to the 23 we had done yesterday. We were just about to mount up when I realised I had forgotten my chaps and to ride without them would be agony., So I set about bandaging each calf under my jods with elasticated bandages, making sure they were just the right tightness. Lisa's eye was still sore but she had good spells and bad spells. The surround of the eye looked very swollen but riding in sunglasses reduced the glare and meant she couldn't easily rub it. She had got some more pine needle out of it this morning and we hoped it would improve. The crew left us in the layby to find a place to park for the day near the station. The intention was for us to ring him when we were leaving the half way cafe so he could get the next train up to the summit where he would meet us with water for the horses. We had been warned by Peter Rutherford from the Snowdonia National Park that water drained well off the mountain and we may struggle finding somewhere for the horses to drink.

A place was found and we set off through Llanberis to the start of the bridleway. The path from the road was on tarmac and very steep. There were a lot of people around but no one seemed bothered by the horses and many stopped to watch us. We led the horses a short way and members of the public offered to give us a leg up and to hold them whilst we mounted. I was surprised at the attraction we had created. The gates were held open for us and as we hit the moorland grass to the left of the rocky path we saw our first train. We waved! Angharads horse was still wary but the others didn't bat an eyelid.

The train stopped out in the open. I wondered if it was for the occupants to take our picture. I assumed that horses on Snowdon was not a regular sight. The path was busy and surprisingly walkers either moved out of our way, waited or we waited to let them pass. There was plenty of room for all but we wanted the route with the better surface and sometimes we had to wait for it. Many asked for a lift!! Donkey rides up Snowdon?...now maybe there is a business opportunity there!

We could see the route we had ridden the day before and the scenery was spectacular. After a week of torrential rain we were so lucky to have had two days of perfect weather for our adventure. We reached the Halfway Cafe and there were the buckets of water behind the building as promised by the proprietor. I had been in touch with the Halfway Cafe and the proprietor had offered to bring a few buckets of water. As we didn't know what the weather would be like we also needed to make provision at the top if we could. The cafe was busy outside with lots of people sitting on the bank opposite the door. We put the horses on a flat spot behind and offered the horses a drink. I went in and bought the coffees and chocolate and a flapjack. Albert took a fancy to the flapjack so I didn't see much of this. The coffee was great and in proper pottery mugs too, no cardboard! The public were keen to see the horses and they had a few strokes although we didn't stay long.

A train passed above us and we prayed that he wouldn't sound his whistle as Dino was restless. I rang the crew and realised that we may get to the top before him given that the trains were very busy and he had to book a ticket and not just catch the next one. Jonathan from the Snowdon Railway arranged for him to ride with the driver to accommodate the water carriers which we were very grateful for. We were still only about an hour from the top and I hoped we would not miss him.

We gingerly passed under the railway line (because it looked like we were riding off the edge ) but not before we stopped to adjust saddles after a long section of man laid rock paving.

Mine had slipped back a bit and I could see a bit too much wither in front of me. Unfortunately Lisa was sitting on Mays kidneys! I have never seen a saddle so far back with the horse not bucking! It was soon realised that an elasticated girth was not a good idea for this trip and we made a number of other stops for her to reset her saddle on the way up. Luckily the horse was impeccably behaved. We knew a train was approaching so we were quick to sort out saddles and get under the bridge and away as soon as possible. May had a fairly deep cut on her coronet band and some wound powder sorted that for now. The paving on this section was not good for horses and it is a shame that a channel at the side could not be left for the horses to walk along.

I was not looking forward to the descent. After passing under the bridge the view was to die for! And in fact I didn't look for too long in case I did. I kept my eyes firmly on the track. I did turn in my saddle to take a picture. We picked a route to the left of the path on the turf which gave them more purchase and watched the train as it passed below on the mountainside. It will be a real shame if the paving of the path prevents horse access in future. As long as there is a suitable route alongside the paved section it will be fine but shod feet on the rock slabs is far from ideal.

I was enjoying the view below us when Val pointed out the way ahead. We had reached the Pyg Track junction and we could see the summit with lots of people “cuddling” some sort of monument stone. It was misty there but I could see them through the mist. It was clear where we were but I could also see what looked like a narrow ridge along side which the railway line ran. I couldn't see the cafe but the thought of having the horses near the ridge when a train came filled me with dread. We made the decision to turn around. I rang the crew who was very disappointed that he didn't get his ride as the driver of a train, or get to the summit having looked at the mountain all day for his time to make the assent.

So we headed down. I got off to walk knowing that it will be hard on the horses legs going down but found that he obviously didn't think he had done enough and wanted to walk down faster than I could! I was mindful that he could push me over the edge or other walkers for that much so I chose a route on the moorland rather than the path. He was pulling my arm out of its socket! I rode down the scary bit that wasn't so scary this way and the view was fantastic. It's a shame my camera won't do it justice. We passed under the bridge again and met the paving. two of us rode and two walked. The two that rode felt they would not be able to control the horse from the ground as well as having to watch where they were walking themselves. The horses feet did slip on the stone slabs but we did try and pick the narrow unpaved path at the edge which was a bit close to the drop but safer than the paving, although not continuous along its length so we had to manage the paving at the end.

It was a nerve racking few hundred metres but the public were accommodating and I was surprised at how close they were prepared to get to the horses. Dogs were generally on leads and we had no problems at all with them. As we got further down on to the foot hills we tried to keep to the grassy areas but some sections were boggy and we came unstuck a couple of times. We passed some white sacks full of rock and hoped that when the path there was paved, the horses would be able to avoid it on the grass. Legally this would probably be a no-no but as a bridleway I hope that the equestrian access will not be obstructed with unsuitable surfacing that cannot be avoided. We headed off back to the trailers. It had been a very short day (3pm now) and the horses seemed very energetic still, not as tired as yesterday. They had a couple of cuts from the rock slabs and a few minor rubs but the horses really enjoyed the turnout together at the B+B and the riders felt a great sense of achievement. Lisa even said she hadn't thought about her sore eye all day as she had too much else to keep her occupied! A trip to A+E did find more debris in her eye and a scratched cornea.

We all agreed that we needed our crew.
Our spirits were lifted when ever we met and would not have been able
to carry sufficient drinks/snacks or water. A lot of research and preparation was done
to make this ride possible to cover all the “What ifs”. Luckily the weather was perfect
but if it hadn't been we would not have ridden Snowdon.

Looking for a Horse Riding Holiday in North Wales?

If you're thinking of a horse riding holiday why not visit Horse Riding Holidays in North Wales